Everyone panic..!

[DG77]

Um the 1200 bit was a joke, it's called sarcasm, sorry if you missed it.
I figured that given the 1200 costs about 100k second hand, was discontinued a few years ago, weighs an absoulte sh*tload and only a few exist becuase they were made by special order you would have worked it out that I was taking the p*ss.
Given he has a 450D it would actually be a massive 1920mm lens !!!

24-70 2.8L is a much better lens than the EF-S alternative, don't be sucked in by the fact the EF-S has IS.

I have been very impressed with the Lightsphere.
Would love to have someone prove me wrong, but I really don't thing you can achieve anywhere near as good results with a speedlight by simply bouncing it off one surface. (i.e. ceiling or wall)
The reason the Lightsphere works so well is that it spreads the light all around the room as well as on and around your subject. The only better solution is to use studio flash with a bloody big softbox - not really viable for a wedding situation.

[Zelbinion]

When you're at the reception, try to bounce flash off walls or the ceiling (as long as it's white, or near enough). If that's not possible, set your camera to aperture priority and slightly underexpose the flash (2/3 of a stop). This is just what my event photographer friend tells me is the best way to do it, so you might want to try this out beforehand.

Remember, getting a harsh full flash shot is better than getting no shot at all.

[MistieWatters]

Remember, getting a harsh full flash shot is better than getting no shot at all.

I beg to differ... I have spent the past 2 months trying to rescue an overexposed shot from a wedding that pretty much can't be salvaged (I can bring back some minor detail, but not enough).

Slightly over or under exposed is no big issue, there are tricks you can do in Photoshop (and similar programs) that can bring back detail, hide noise etc etc. But nothing brings back a shot that has harsh full flash.

FWIW Arun: I was at a wedding on Sunday... the Photog was using a 5D with L series lenses (not necessary as long as you are familiar with the glass you have) and a 580EX. (Yes, I was drooling). When he took photos indoors in low light he had the flash directly on the subject. Most of the day he did as a matter of fact. Even used the flash outdoors (I am about to post some photos I took with my 50mm f1.8 in the exact same conditions... in a couple of the shots I have on my computer the photog's arm is in the way. so you will know I had a similar angle to him!) as a filler. He obviously knew what he was doing because some of the poses I watched him set up were wonderfully placed, so I don't doubt his use of the flash. He probably will spend less time on PP than I did last night when I couldn't sleep.

If you can't afford an 85mm f1.8 before the day, spend $150 (ish) on a 50mm f.18, trust me, it will be good enough if you can't afford the 85mm. Same aperture is a good start, just a bit more walking around required for the 50 :D

[Arun Nicklen]

If you can't afford an 85mm f1.8 before the day, spend $150 (ish) on a 50mm f.18, trust me, it will be good enough if you can't afford the 85mm. Same aperture is a good start, just a bit more walking around required for the 50 :D

Lol, it arrived yesterday, hehe. I must have read your mind. Thanks for the heads up.

Also thanks to everyone who handed down tips and tricks. I bought 2 more 8gb SD cards yesterday, 2 for 1 sale, and all I need now is a flash defuser and some more batteries. My fiance is going to help me out positioning the happy couple and family. Thanks guys.

[Smorter]

Diffuser is a waste of money in most instances. Do you know your venue yet?

[DG77]

Diffuser is a waste of money in most instances. Do you know your venue yet?

For outide fill flash perhaps, but if you need to use flash inside it's very helpful.
Simply bouncing off a ceiling is not ideal as it gives harsh shadows under the nose and doesn't get any light into the subjects eyes, which is fine if your taking a photo of a biker and want him to like like a criminal, not ideal for a bride and groom. The 580EX has a bounce card that works reasonably well when taking photos in landscape, but is useless if shooting portrait... and taping a piece of white card to the flash head to give the same effect looks a bit `backyarder'.... although I have done it it on occasion !!

Spend the $60 of the Lightsphere, you won't be disapointed.
It will alow you to spend less time worrying about your flash (Just make sure the flash head points up) freeing up more time to concentrate on getting the shots.

[Arun Nicklen]

The ceremony is in the local park, beside the river, lots of harsh light 90% of the time. The reception is at the Hockey club (Hockey club wedding) White walls, and plenty of em... Im sure that they are setting up out on the terrace though with lattice all around. Unfortunately the floor out there is shiny concrete, grrr...

[MDSimpson]

Arun,
You need to go to the location a few times, if you can, same time of the day as the wedding and reception, preferably with different lighting so you can gauge what you need, where the sun/shadows will be and go from there. Take a friend and lots of test shots.
Good luck, I did my first wedding a few weeks ago and it went well.

[Smorter]

For outide fill flash perhaps, but if you need to use flash inside it's very helpful.
Simply bouncing off a ceiling is not ideal as it gives harsh shadows under the nose and doesn't get any light into the subjects eyes, which is fine if your taking a photo of a biker and want him to like like a criminal, not ideal for a bride and groom. The 580EX has a bounce card that works reasonably well when taking photos in landscape, but is useless if shooting portrait... and taping a piece of white card to the flash head to give the same effect looks a bit `backyarder'.... although I have done it it on occasion !!

Spend the $60 of the Lightsphere, you won't be disapointed.
It will alow you to spend less time worrying about your flash (Just make sure the flash head points up) freeing up more time to concentrate on getting the shots.

Here's my little personal secret for bouncing (though it wasn't my idea):
I used to bounce off a ceiling at 90 degrees and always got the nose shadows and it annoyed me like crazy. Not anymore. Never again.

I now always over my shoulder. Have never had problems with shadows anymore. A shoulder bounce also gives you nice directional lighting like you've used a softbox. Awesome. I highly recommend.

Also you can get fake Fong Dongs from Ebay, the Lambency brand $20 or so, no point paying 60 for a OEM Gary Fong version (although I guess if you want to be ethical the Gary Fong version is the one, but it costs more :( )

The only downside with bouncing is the abscence of a neutral coloured wall or ceiling, in which case I stop flash altogether or bounce off people or reflectors or just go direct flash

[DG77]

The ceremony is in the local park, beside the river, lots of harsh light 90% of the time. The reception is at the Hockey club (Hockey club wedding) White walls, and plenty of em... Im sure that they are setting up out on the terrace though with lattice all around. Unfortunately the floor out there is shiny concrete, grrr...

Just remember to keep the sun behind you're subjects so they're not looking into the sun, and try to avoid dappled light... Go for either full sun shots or full shade shots to avoid burnt out areas.

[Smorter]

^Great Advice, I always struggle to deal with harsh light

[kewpie]

Just remember to keep the sun behind you're subjects so they're not looking into the sun, and try to avoid dappled light....

i disagree on this point - if u have the light behind your subjects, you are going to have back light...and you're going to need to use fill flash to compensate for this.

i do agree about having your subjects either in full light or in full shade.

[DG77]

What's wrong with fill flash? Would you prefer to have them squinting ??

[kewpie]

What's wrong with fill flash? Would you prefer to have them squinting ??

nothing wrong with fill flash. but putting the sun behind someone is my last choice. will only do it if there's something of significance in the back.

[DG77]

So you do prefer to have them squinting :)

[kewpie]

So you do prefer to have them squinting :)

only if you're in the pic.

[Trevor]

Hay i cant help you with your wedding SORRY but here is a good link to learn how to do watermarks through photoshop
http://www.candeekis.com/pswatermark/pswmtut.html

[Photogenic]

I know the wedding is drawing closer - I just came across this site which has a nice handy list of suggested photos to take thought it might come in handy. Hope it's OK to post it here, if not, sorry.
Linda

http://www.allweddingideas.com/photos-wedding-day.shtml

[Charismatic]

# 1 -- Don't panic!!

Panic and nerves will only result in bad photos and no doubt forgetting something... Like oh I dunno, a memory card which you remember you left in your SD reader on your computer desk when you were half-way to the ceremony! I know I've done it, ha. Which is why you get to the venue ATLEAST 30-45minutes before anyone even expects you to be there. Take some test shots, get something to eat near by.. Just be in Walking distance of the place 30 minutes before it starts!

And prepare, prepare, prepare. That way once the day rolls around, you can have a checklist of everything you need to pack into your bag, then into the car, then out of the car, all the way down to who goes in which photo(Even if you have to quietly and politely pull the Bride or Groom aside after the Signing and say, "Okay, do you want to do some family and group shots now? How about we start with the Grooms side first, then your side, and we'll work our way down to Close Friends and Relatives, all the way to an entire group shot), you decide how many shots, what style, what poses and you put it into practice. The only thing that they need to tell you is if they prefer natural snaps or do they prefer the more serious ones.. Etc etc. Everything else is on you. And that is what the interview is -- To establish all that.

Hell, I do some these days where I goto the interview ready to take out a list as long as my leg of things I think I'll have to do, to ending up narrowing it down to the couple asking for "Candid, in the moment pictures with a few group shots where you line us up" -- It really isn't that big of a deal. If your confident in your equipment, an the fact that ITS A WEDDING -- Really, if the "photo quality" is good, do you honestly think the bride + groom are going to turn into pixel-hungry-hawks telling you something in the very back corner is a little out of focus or frame? And don't forget PHOTOSHOP. Any little stupid things you do on the day can 90% of the time be fixed on PP.

Simply thrive to capture the day how you see it, and of course, take their ideas and what they want into mind -- But at the end of the day, YOU are the artist, they've hired YOU and YOU should take photos of what YOU believe portray the day AROUND them - After all, they'll have much more on their minds -- Like the honeymoon.

It's what I've been doing and I haven't had a single complaint yet.

[Photogenic]

Have a backup plan in case of rain. I think it is important to discuss this - I didn't and it rained all day today luckily there was about 1 hour where it stopped enough to take some decent shots (although, beaches and rain aren't the best combination). Just make sure that you know what the plan is in case of rain and prepare for it - it might mean a shortened timeframe to get the importants shots which is why it is important to know exactly what the bride and groom are after. And be prepared to think on your feet - I think this only comes with experience but if you cover as many bases as possible before the day it can only help.
Linda